Indiay, day 14... when Vicki learns that colonialism brought good with bad
"Goa is not India," Indians have told me, and I understood what they meant on my first day in Goa. Will day two change my mind? As we drive from our hotel in Baga to Old Goa, I am struck by the differences between the India I've seen so far, and this India.
First, the emphasis on safety. Scores of traffic police control intersections, and many motorcyclists wear helmets; I spot one in a high visibility vest. Signs advise drivers to wear seat belts, obey the speed limit and stay left, warning “Accidents are the pain, safety is the gain”. These rules are obeyed, for the most part, and I miss the chaotic lawlessness of Delhi. This just feels... too much like home. Where are all the tuk tuks?
Second, the presence of Christianity. I see trucks and buses emblazoned with huge “Jesus saves!” and “Praise the lord!” stickers, and numerous Christmas tree markets. In place of roadside Hindu shrines and temples, I spot Catholic shrines and churches. Our bus driver has a statue of Jesus on his dashboard, not the usual statue of Ganesh.
First, the emphasis on safety. Scores of traffic police control intersections, and many motorcyclists wear helmets; I spot one in a high visibility vest. Signs advise drivers to wear seat belts, obey the speed limit and stay left, warning “Accidents are the pain, safety is the gain”. These rules are obeyed, for the most part, and I miss the chaotic lawlessness of Delhi. This just feels... too much like home. Where are all the tuk tuks?
Second, the presence of Christianity. I see trucks and buses emblazoned with huge “Jesus saves!” and “Praise the lord!” stickers, and numerous Christmas tree markets. In place of roadside Hindu shrines and temples, I spot Catholic shrines and churches. Our bus driver has a statue of Jesus on his dashboard, not the usual statue of Ganesh.
Old Goa: Rome of the East
Although barely 2% of India's population identifies as Christian, more than 25% of Goa’s population is Catholic. I learn that the Portuguese used economic incentives, threats and force to convert the local population to Catholicism, and maintained control in parts of India into the 60s. Old Goa is still called Rome of the East.We visit a cluster of 17th century churches: Basilica of Bom Jesus, where St. Francis Xavier is interred, Se Cathedral, St. Francis of Assisi. It's a regular Thursday, and hundreds of locals are attending the mass taking place outdoors. I am not allowed inside with the pilgrims: bare shoulders. A friend offers me a scarf but I take a pass. I'm a lapsed Catholic who lost faith a long time ago, and the whole experience is making me uncomfortable. Where some see the offer of hope and salvation, I see false promises and paternalism.
From a fish market to a Goan spice farm
Thankfully, our itinerary for the rest of today is more up my alley: a fish market, a spice farm, and a Goan cooking class.
Indian cuisine varies dramatically from one region to another, a reflection of different climates, cultures, and religions. In the north you'll find breads—chapati, roti, naan—as well as samosas, yoghurt, creamy masala, mild spices. Basically, the Indian food we eat in the West. In the south—where it's hotter, more tropical and more coastal—fish, coconut and rice dominate, and the spice level is high.
At the fish market, locals pick up kingfish and prawns for dinner, and sleek patchwork cats prowl around, eating scraps from the ground and sometimes stealing entire fish from the baskets on display.
Indian cuisine varies dramatically from one region to another, a reflection of different climates, cultures, and religions. In the north you'll find breads—chapati, roti, naan—as well as samosas, yoghurt, creamy masala, mild spices. Basically, the Indian food we eat in the West. In the south—where it's hotter, more tropical and more coastal—fish, coconut and rice dominate, and the spice level is high.
At the fish market, locals pick up kingfish and prawns for dinner, and sleek patchwork cats prowl around, eating scraps from the ground and sometimes stealing entire fish from the baskets on display.
Tropical Spice Plantation is a small slice of paradise. I learn where cashews come from (I'd always assumed they were just regular old nuts, but they are in fact the byproduct of a pear-shaped fruit), why real vanilla is so expensive (it takes years for the vines to ripen, and their flowers only bloom for one day each year), and where chilies originated (Mexico... Europeans took them back to the continent, and the Portuguese then introduced them to India and other parts of Asia—a happy outcome of colonialism. My beloved vindaloo is in fact the evolution of a Portuguese dish, vinha d'alhos).
We're served a traditional Goan lunch outside, including a cup of feni: a highly potent Goan spirit that's made from the fruit (not the nut) of the cashew. I happily take seconds of the dahl, and pass on more feni. Cashews are better in curry.
A Goan cooking class
The final night of our Indian food tour ends appropriately, with a Goan cooking class. The chef tells us that Goan cuisine typically includes three elements: sweet (often coconut), sour (lime or tamarind), and spicy. He prepares two classic local dishes—Goan fish curry, and chicken xacuti—and tells us about his life. He's a devout churchgoer, thankful for his faith and the Portuguese influence on Indian food. (I think back to the equally generous comments I heard about the English in India.)
After dinner, we go to a local tourist bar with bright neon, loud music, and two-for-one drinks. I didn't come to India to party, but then again, I didn't come to India to make friends either. I can't say I will miss Baga, but I will miss these new friends—and the food and people of India. That will always be the real India to me.
